Rajmachi is one fort with two citadels, Shrivardhan and Manaranjan, rising above the little village of Udhewadi between Lonavala and Karjat. It guarded the old Bor Ghat trade route between the Konkan and the Deccan. Today it is one of the best-loved treks near Mumbai and Pune: a 15 km walk from Lonavala, or a steeper climb from Karjat past the Kondana caves, with waterfalls in the monsoon and fireflies before it.
Why Rajmachi matters
Rajmachi sits near the source of the Ulhas river, watching over the Bor Ghat, the pass between Khopoli and Khandala that carried trade between the coast and the plateau for centuries. Whoever held it could watch that road. When Kanhoji Angre handed the forts of the area to Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj in about 1720, Rajmachi was the one he kept. The British took it in 1818.
Udhewadi and the two citadels
Udhewadi is the village on the plateau below both citadels, where most trekkers stay the night.
- Shrivardhan is the taller citadel. A path of steps cut in the rock takes about half an hour to its west gate. From the top you can see the Kataldhar waterfall in the monsoon.
- Manaranjan is reached by a mud path that starts behind the Bhairavnath temple, about 45 minutes from the village.
- Around Udhewadi: the Bhairavnath temple and a Mahadev temple beside the lake.
The routes
| Route | Start | Time | What it is like |
|---|---|---|---|
| From Lonavala | Lonavala, via Tungarli | About 15 km, 3.5 to 5 hours to Udhewadi | A long, mostly flat track; easiest for beginners. Jeeps can cover part or all of it |
| From Karjat | Kondiwade village, past the Kondana caves | 2 to 3 hours from the caves to Udhewadi | Shorter and steeper, with waterfalls in the monsoon; stream crossings can flood |
From Udhewadi, add 30 to 45 minutes to each citadel.
How to reach the start
- Lonavala: by train or bus from Pune or Mumbai. Jeeps from near Lonavala station run towards Udhewadi.
- Karjat: by local train from Mumbai, then an auto to Kondiwade village, about 14 km.
Fireflies at Rajmachi
At the end of summer, just before the monsoon, the forest around Rajmachi lights up with fireflies. It is a famous sight. Go with a responsible group, keep torches pointed down, and leave the forest as you found it.
Tips for your visit
- Carry a torch and a power bank. Udhewadi may have no electricity.
- In the monsoon, check the Karjat route before you set off and do not cross a fast stream.
- Plan an overnight stay if you want both citadels without rushing.
- Carry water and food for the long walk from Lonavala.
- No litter, no loud music in the village or at night.
Places near Rajmachi
- The Kondana caves, 2,000-year-old Buddhist caves on the Karjat route.
- Lohagad Fort and Visapur Fort, the twin forts on the other side of Lonavala.
